The Fungi are a very diverse and ‘strange’ group of organisms, the true fungi are referred to as the Mycota. The Oomycota are fungus-like organisms, but somewhat different and are responsible for diseases like potato blight.   Unlike green plants, fungi do not have any chlorophyll so cannot make sugars and other compounds by photosynthesis. They get their sugars / carbohydrates through being  saprobes (saprophytes),  parasites, or sometimes  symbionts. Many soil fungi are saprobes, that is, they ‘feed’ on the dead leaves, bits of bark, dead bodies of insects and other animals that end up in the soil. Fungal saprobes, together with bacteria and other organisms, use enzymes to break down the complex chemicals in the dead and decaying remains, to release simpler compounds such as sugars and amino acids. These are then used for the growth and development of the fungi. Fungal parasites obtain their sugars and amino acids by feeding on another living organism (the host). Examples of parasitic fungi include  mildews,  ergot of rye, Athlete’s foot  bracket fungi, Aspergillosis (lung disease)   ‘rusts’ on wheat and hollyhocks Thrush As can be seen from the list above, the host can be us. By definition, parasitic associations do not benefit the host. Some fungi enter into an association with another living organism in which both partners benefit; this is symbiosis. Lichens are examples of symbiotic associations between various types of algae and fungi. For more information on the nature of lichens, see the WoodlandsTV film.   [embed]https://youtu.be/YnyxpY8V-GI?si=InEq06izX88VJJnI[/embed] Mycorrhizae are symbiotic associations between fungi and the roots of certain trees and other plants. The microscopic, tube-like fungal threads (hyphae) form a network around the roots of a tree.  They take various carbohydrate compounds from the tree that it has made through photosynthesis.   However, the transfer is not one way; the tree benefits as it gains mineral nutrients from the extensive fungal network of hyphae that ramify through the soil – absorbing a variety of minerals. As a result of their enhanced mineral nutrition, mycorrhizal plants often show better growth and development when compared to non-mycorrhizal ones (of the same species).    https://youtu.be/I0Buzzhv40E Interestingly, it is thought that the invasive Rhododendron ponticum gains an advantage though it’s mycorrhizal associations. In nutrient poor acidic soils they may ‘starve’ competing plants of vital nutrient requirements.  It also has the ability to poison the soil for others (a phenomenon known as allelopathy}.   It is thought that ancient / veteran trees such as Oak in the UK, or the Bristlecones in the States have well developed and diverse mycorrhizal systems. At the other end of scale in terms of size are orchids.  Orchids produce seeds that are so small [(0.35mm to 1.50mm long] that they contain no nutrition to sustain the germinating seedling. Instead, the seeds must gain the energy to grow from a fungal symbiont.  The cells of the seed are actually penetrated by the fungus.  Recent research on the common spotted orchid by Professor Field at the University of Sheffield suggests that the fungi supplying the nutrients may be connected to parent plants. This may explain why orchids are often found in clumps - despite the seeds being wind dispersed. The idea that mycelial networks may allow communication between trees over a large area has received much attention recently - the wood wide web.     The book “Finding the mother tree” by Suzanne Simard “proposed that trees help each other out by dispatching resources and warning signals through fungal networks in the soil”. The idea was further promulgated in a TED talk. However, a review of relevant research papers / literature by Justine Karst, University of Alberta (and others) suggests that the claims are based on limited evidence and that further research is needed.

I have been collecting birch sap for many years. It is such a remarkable gift from nature. It has many health-giving properties. And is incredibly versatile. Prior to buying our woodland, which is listed in the ancient tree register as a birch coppice, I would ask wood owners permission to tap their trees, generally well received but sometimes a bit inconvenient. Process It's a fairly straightforward process. The sap rises once a year, generally the last two weeks in March. Normally from the 16th here in the north-east of Scotland. The kit you would need is a cordless drill, an 11/16 bit, plastic tubing the same size (needs to be a tight fit), food grade plastic container (especially if a distance from your car, needs to have a small aperture to prevent beasties getting in but with enough room to breath. the demijohn has ideal size aperture) or glass demijohn. March 16th comes round surprisingly quick! Choosing a tree is a bit hit and miss, although over the years I seem to have developed a bit of a skill in choosing good ones.  Generally I would say mature trees around 8 inches diameter, preferably well away from areas where pesticide is in use and the tree is in good shape. I have previously used trees with witches broom (the tree has been infected with a fungal, viral and occasionally insect activity) and found the tree to be witches broom free the following year. This is not a scientifically proven theory, just from personal observation. Depending on the size of the container, I have used water cooler containers (I found out that they are single-use plastic so most companies that have them are quite happy to give them away), they have the perfect aperture and even though they hold three to four gallons, the weight of the container adds little to the burden, I normally drill 5 or 6 inches above the top of the container. You should aim to drill through the bark; I give it around an inch (2.54 cm in new money), at right angle. Push in the plastic tube, which should be 8-10 inches (you do the maths) long, and the other end into your container, it should start dripping immediately. leave it overnight and check, if using larger containers leave for two or three days. The flow varies, but from a good tree you could expect around a gallon a day. Preparation  You will have a 3-5 day window to use it before it goes cloudy, once cloudy use to water the garden so its not entirely lost. If wine is your thing it is very simple with the sap, sugar and yeast, makes a very palatable result and will keep for at least a year. If you prefer non-alcohol, it can make a delicious cordial - it also preserves it. If you are happy with lots of boiling to reduce it to a creamy balm/moisturiser. There are plenty of recipes on the web for these. These options preserve many of the saps health giving properties. Hope that will do, chaga should also have a wee space, which will grow on birch too and has fantastic health giving properties. Author: Ron (wood owner near Aberdeen)